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Narcissus 'thalia'

Pronunciation: Nar-sis-suss
Family: Amaryllidaceae
Common Name: Thalia daffodil
Plant Type:
  • trees, shrubs
  • perennial
Height to: 14"
USDA Hardiness Zones:
  • -30 to -40ºF ZONE 3
  • -20 to -30ºF ZONE 4
  • -10 to -20ºF ZONE 5
  • 0 to -10ºF ZONE 6
  • 10 to 0ºF ZONE 7
  • 20 to 10ºF ZONE 8
Sun Exposure:
  • part sun
  • full sun
Bloom Season:
  • early spring
  • mid spring
Bloom Description: Thalia daffodil (narcissus) bears 2 milkwhite flowers, 2" across, with narrow, twisted, slightly reflexed perianth segments and an elongated open cup.
Soil Type: Thalia daffodil (narcissus) prefers deep, fertile, well-drained soil
Plant Perks:
  • Container Gardening
  • Cut Flower
Pests and Diseases: Thalia daffodil (narcissus) is susceptible to bulb rots. Plants that have been attacked may not emerge or may have weak or blighted leaves. Bulbs usually begin to rot at the base.
Propagation: Divide overcrowded narcissus clumps in late summer, and plant offsets elsewhere in the garden. The narcissus species types can be propagated with fresh seed collected during summer and sown in late summer or autumn in pots outdoors. Seeds will take several years to flower.
Notes for Identification: Thalia daffodil is a clump-forming bulbous, deciduous perennialgroup: triandrushabit: clump-forming, erectbulb depth: daffodils should be planted so the base of the bulb is about 6 inches below the soil surface. In light soils, bulbs may be planted about 8 inches deep. Plant bulbs 6" apart thalia daffodil's care: daffodils need little care during the early spring. Established bulbs should be fertilized lightly each spring just as the leaves begin to come through the soil. Both during and after flowering, daffodils need plenty of moisture to make active growth. During the summer, when the bulbs are dormant, they should remain fairly dry. Therefore, unless they are removed, daffodils should not be planted in beds that are heavily watered in summer. The leaves manufacture the food that is stored in the bulb and helps produce flowers the following year. Foliage should be allowed to remain on the plant undisturbed for eight weeks after bloom. After that period, it can be removed by hand-picking. The use of a knife or scissors to remove foliage encourages the spread of virus diseases and should be avoided. Tying the leaves together cuts down the amount of light they receive and reduces food production. When planted in borders, mix daffodils with daylilies, ferns or other plants that partially hide the foliage but still allow it to manufacture food for the bulb. Flower heads should be promptly removed to prevent seed production. If bulbs have not been planted too close together, daffodils need digging only about every five to 10 years. Usually, when flowering is reduced or flower size becomes smaller, the time for digging and dividing has come. Dig the bulbs while the foliage is dying and can still be seen so bulbs can be located. A spading fork is best to prevent bruising while digging. Storing daffodils: do not let bulbs lie in the hot sun after they have been dug. Remove loose soil and allow bulbs to dry in shallow trays, onion sacks or old nylon stockings. Never pile up bulbs while drying or those on the inner part of the pile will be ruined. Allow bulbs to dry in a cool, well-ventilated place for several weeks. Discard any that rot. After bulbs are dry, the offsets may be removed from the mother bulb, provided they can be separated easily. Remove old, dried skins and roots. After division, place them in a cool, dry location in shallow trays or porous sacks until planting time in the fall. Burlap sacks do not give enough ventilation. Some of the poeticus narcissi have a short dormant period and should be planted immediately after drying. Forcing daffodils indoors: daffodils are not difficult to force in the home. Begin the forcing process about oct. 1. Large bulbs will force best. Soaking the bulbs in a rooting hormone for 24 hours before planting helps develop good root growth. Use a 6- to 8-inch pot with drainage. Use a well-drained soil and fill the pot to 2 inches from the top. Add the bulbs close together and fill the pot with soil. About 5 bulbs may be planted in a 6-inch pot. The noses of the bulbs should be exposed. Water plants thoroughly. Fertilizer will not be needed. Place the pots in a trench outdoors and cover with soil or soil and leaf mold or peat moss so the pots are covered about 6 inches. The pots may be taken indoors for forcing when they show good top growth and flower buds are clearly visible. This usually takes 10 to 12 weeks. When the pots are first taken indoors, they should be kept in a cool room where temperatures are about 50 to 55 degrees fahrenheit for about two weeks. During the next two weeks, they should have temperatures about 60 degrees fahrenheit. By this time flowers should begin to open and plants may be moved where desired. Keep the plants well watered. Not all varieties force well. In general, the earliest bloom for plants forced in this way is valentine's day. Some cultivars that force well are abba, avalanche, beryl, bridal crown, cantitrice, carbineer, carlton, cragford, february gold, fortune, geranium, king alfred, peeping tom, printal, saint keverne and silver chimes. Toxicity: ingestion may cause severe discomfort. Can also be a skin irritant. * according to classical mythology, a young lad named narcissus was so enamored with himself that he stared at his reflection in a pool of water until he eventually turned into the flower that now bears his name. Source: various resources including the american horticultural society a to z encyclopedia of garden plants, the usda, and the university of missouri extension
USDA Heat Zones (days above 86ºF):
  • Less then 1 day ZONE 1
  • 1 to 7 days ZONE 2
  • 7 to 14 days ZONE 3
  • 14 to 30 days ZONE 4
  • 30 to 45 days ZONE 5
  • 45 to 60 days ZONE 6
  • 60 to 90 days ZONE 7
Seed photo: 0
Seed Label: 0
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